BULHARSKO, DAY 4

Yesterday’s bread, salami, plastic cheese, margarine and jam – that was the school cantine-like breakfast we got at the Maljovica Hut. Flash-back to our childhood. We ate it all…to the very last slice of salami. Not that we would love it that much but because we were that hungry.

We planned a one day round trip to the Lovnitsa peak (2,965 m.a.s.l.). We leave the majority of our stuff by the hut because we decided to spend another night here. A night with mosquitos, without a shower and with the “Annoying Cauliflower”… But those gorgeous fries are worth it.

We start off with a steep ascent, the hut is getting smaller and smaller until it disappears out of our sign completely. We pass by a huge stone with markers of many mountaineers, whose lives the local mountains claimed. After closer investigation, it turns out that the majority of the commemorated people died during the winter treks. It gives me the shivers. I have seen memorial tablets like these before but never in such amount in one place. The ubiquitous fog that surrounds us enhances the bleak atmosphere of this place. It makes one think about the impermanency and fragility of one’s life.

We scramble up the hill, the greenery wanes and the stones get sharper and sharper. I stop for a while to take a look around. The landscape resembles Mordor, I occurs to me. In that moment, Thomas turns around and seeing me lagging behind says: “Come on, Mr. Frodo, we have to go!” We both start laughing. New level of the long-term relationship – reached. Telephaty – unlocked. After that we just shoot one movie one-liner after another. We we run out of them, we start singing the dark battle melody – “Tu du dúm….tum tum tum”.

The way passes quickly and smoothly. The last few meters to the top are really steep. After a demanding ascent, we enjoy the view – of the fog. Luckily the fog dissolves after a while and a view of the wooded valleys and surrounding peaks opens up. We are lucky. We enjoy a lunch on the top and stay for a bit longer afterwards – just chilling and observing.

We use the same path to go back. Honestly we don’t really have a choice. The way is pleasant and before we know it, we are back at Maljovica Hut, resting next to the tent.


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